Orkney/Arcaibh trail

Orkney/Arcaibh is made up of some seventy islands about ten miles north of Caithness in northeast Scotland. Mainland, one of twenty inhabited islands, is the largest and Kirkwall the Orkney capital is located there. The islands have been inhabited for at least eight and a half thousand years and were occupied by the Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age), Neolithic (New Stone Age) and then Pict tribes. The Picts were thought to have spoken a Brythonic language, one of the two inter Celtic language families. The Picts later merged in with the Gaels, who spoke the other inter Celtic language Goidelic whose language and culture would eventually become dominant in the Pictish area. In 875 AD Orkney came under Norse rule and was subsequently annexed to the Scottish Crown in 1472. Under Norse rule Orkney and Shetland were known as the Northern Isles (Nordreyjar) as distinct from the Southern Isles (Sordreyjar) which comprised the Hebrides, the islands of the Firth of Clyde and the Isle of Man.

Orkney is noted for having some of the best preserved and oldest Neolithic sites in Europe. A group of such monuments on the Mainland island is known as the 'The Heart of Neolithic Orkney' and the four sites form a Unesco World Heritage Site. Transceltic begins it's trail in Kirkwall on the Mainland and the island itself.

Mainland and Hoy

Kirkwall/Baile na-h-Eaglais-is the capital of Orkney, located in the centre of Mainland and the port has ferry services to Aberdeen and Lerwick as well as the other main north islands in the archipelago. In the town is the Orkney Museum, Tankerness House, Broadstreet, Kirkwall. It is housed in a sixteenth century town house. The museum has an important collection and gives the history of Orkney from the Mesolithic, Neolithic and Pict times through to the Viking period until the present day. The museum is open throughout the year from Mon-Sat 10:30-17:00. Also in Kirkwall is St Magnus Cathedral which was built for the Norse Earls of Orkney. Construction of the Cathedral, which was part of the Norwegian church, began in 1137 and it has been added to over subsequent centuries. Next to the Cathedral are the ruins of the Bishop's Palace and Earl's Palace. The Bishop's Palace was built at the same time as the Cathedral and was home to the first Bishop William the Old (William Sennex). The Earl's Palace was constructed from 1607 by Patrick Stewart, 2nd Earl of Orkney. It's ruins lie close to the cathedral in the centre of Kirkwall.

Grain Earth House

This is a well built Iron Age Souterrain supported on pillars and located west from Kirkwall off the A965 at Hatston Industrial Estate at the lower junction of Scott's Road.

Wideford Hill Cairn

This tomb dates back to about 3000 BC. Similar to the internal arrangement at Maes Howe with a passage, main chamber and side cells. It is located west from Kirkwall at Wideford Hill. The site is entered by via a ladder from the top of the cairn and requires a torch.

Cuween Hill Cairn

This is a Neolithic chambered cairn. The tomb is entered along a passage leading to a main chamber made up of corbelled stonework and side cells. The remains of some eight humans were found in the chamber (mostly skulls) along with the skulls of twenty four small dogs. The site is located on a hillside off the old Finstown Road from Kirkwall south of the A965. The site is signposted to a car park and then a walk of about 250 metres.

Maeshowe

This is a Neolithic chambered cairn and passage grave with many similarities to the Newgrange site in Ireland. Encasing the tomb is a mound of some 24 feet in height and about 115 feet in diameter. Within the mound is a complex of chambers and passages built with large stone slabs. The central chamber is built to align with the light of the winter solstice as with the the Irish Newgrange site pointing to linked cultures. There are a number of runic inscriptions in the tomb left by Vikings who broke into the tomb in the mid-twelfth century. The site is open daily throughout the year and is located off the A 965 west from Finstown, southeast from Loch Harray towards Stennes.

Barnhouse Stone

This is a standing stone of about ten feet in height in a field close to Maeshowe. It is north of the A965 about half a mile south of the stones at Stennes.

Standing Stones of Stenness

West from Kirkwall and Finnstown along the A965 towards Stromness on the south-eastern shore of Loch Stenness. There are four stones of 12 original remaining, standing up to 16 feet in height. The site is dated to 3100 BC and was surrounded by a ditch and earth bank.

The Comet Stone

This is a standing stone which is located to the southeast of the Ring of Brodgar. The stone which is about 5feet 9inches in height and could have been part of a ceremonial route between the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar.

Ring of Brodgar

This is a Neolithic stone circle and henge possibly erected around 2500 BC-2000 BC. It is located on a narrow strip of land between Loch Harray and Loch Stenness about a mile northwest from The Standing Stones of Stenness. Twenty seven stones remain of a larger ring set in a circular ditch over 340 feet in diameter. The stones vary in height from 7 feet to over 15 feet.

The Watchstone

This is a standing stone of about nineteen feet in height and was once one of two. The stone is to the northwest of the Stones of Stennes.

Broch o' Borwick

This Broch is thought to date from the first millennium BC and the remaining walls standing at nearly three meters in height. The southeast facing entrance leads to a passage that goes to the remains of a small guard cell. The side of the broch closest to the sea has been subject to coastal erosion and stands about eighty feet above the sea. The broch is north from Yesnaby along the cliff top overlooking Borwick Bay mid-way to Scara Brae.

Skara Brae

This is a Neolithic settlement made up of ten houses estimated to date back to about 3200 BC. The houses contain a number of stone built pieces of furniture and have an average size of about 430 square feet with a hearth. A number of items have been found on the site including artefacts made of whalebone, walrus ivory and other fish and animal bone made into practical day to day living utensils as well as items of decoration. A number of carved stone balls were also found with similar carvings on lintels and bed posts. The site is open throughout the year and is located southwest of Skaill Home farm off the B9056. Many of the items found at the site are at the visitors centre close by.

The Stane o' Quobune

This is a standing stone of about thirteen feet in height dating from the second millennium BC. It is a good example of a number of such standing stones in Orkney. The site is located to the west of Loch of Boardhouse of the A967 in Birsay close to Stanger.

Birsay

Here is the remains a Viking monastic settlement on the Brough of Birsay and the place where legend says that St Magnus (Earl Magnus Erlendsson) was educated.

Broch o' Gurness

This is the remains of an Iron Age Fort located north of the A966 overlooking Eynhallow Sound looking toward Rousay. Discovered in 1929 in what was known as the Knowe o' Aikerness. It is thought to date between 200 BC-100 BC and is one of about fifty known to date in Orkney. The broch is about sixty-five in diameter internally surrounded by high walls and has the remains of stone dwellings. The site was surrounded by three ramparts and ditches.

Minehow

This is an Iron Age stone built chamber. There are two levels containing four chambers dug into an earthen mound. The exact purpose of the site is not known but is thought to have been of ritual importance. It is located in Tankerness about eight miles southeast from Kirkwall.

Hoy

Dwarfie Stone

To the south of the Mainland island in Hoy is a tomb known as the Dwarfie Stone. It is of unusual construction having been hewn from a single very large block of stone. It is thought to date to about 3500 BC to 2500 BC. The island of Hoy is the second largest in Orkney and is connected to the Mainland island by a causeway known as The Ayre. The island is known for it's high cliffs and the sea stack the 'Old Man Of Hoy which is to the west of the Dwarfie Stone close to Rathwick in the northwest of the island and stands at nearly 250 feet.

South Ronaldsay

This is an island to the south of Mainland that can be reached by use of the Churchill Barriers which are four causeways that link Orkney Mainland to South Ronaldsay via Burray and Lamb Holm and Glimps Holm. The largest town on South Ronaldsay is St Margarets Hope in the north of the island and can be reached by ferry from Gills Bay which is about four miles west from John O'Groats. There is also a summer ferry service from John O'Groats to Burwick on the south coast of South Ronaldsay from the beginning of May until the ends of September. On Burray which is south from Mainland and Lamb home is the Fossil and Heritage Centre which is north of Echna Loch off the A961. It is open from the end of April until the end of September.

Tomb of the Eagles/Ibister Chambered Cairn

This cairn is estimated to have been built in 3000BC and used for about 800 years. It is made up of a rectangular stone chamber with side cells and stalls. When excavated there were a considerable number of human remains as well the talons and remains of white tailed sea eagles, which gave the name of the Tomb of Eagles to the site. There is a visitors centre on the site. Also close the site is Liddel Burnt Mound dating back to the Iron Age. The site is open from March to October and at other times by arrangement. Contact details-01856 831339. The site is located in the southeast of the island east of the A961 towards Liddel and the site is signposted. There is a circular walk from the Visitors Centre that takes in the Bronze Age site and Tomb.

Shapinsay

Burroughston Broch

Surrounded by a grass mound this broch is located on the island of Shapinsay. The island is reached by car ferry from Kirkwall to Balfour and the broch is in the northeast of Shapinsay about a mile south from the Ness of Ork. As the exterior has not been excavated it is possible to look down into the broch where the remains of stone furniture and a complete chamber can be seen. Also on the island is Mor Stein standing stone in the southeast and south east of Mor Stein is Castle Bloody Souterrain. In the southwest of Shapinsay is Balfour Castle built in 1847 by the architect David Bryce on the site of an older building.

Rousay

Rousay is about two miles north from Mainland island. It is an island of considerable archaeological importance with many historical sites. It can be reached by car ferry from Tingwall on Mainland.

Brinian

In the south of the island is home to the Ferry Terminal in Rousay and the arrival point from Tingwall. At the terminal there is a small Heritage Centre which gives information on Rousay's archaeology and history. It is open throughout the year.

Taversoe Tuick

This is a Neolithic chambered tomb located west from the Ferry Terminal along the B9064. The cairn is a round mound containing two chambers one below the other. When excavated the lower chamber had the remains of at least three people one a crouched skeleton on a stone shelf. Other cremated remains were in the passageway. In the upper chamber further cremated remains were found. There is another miniature chamber outside of the cairn.

Blackhammer

This is a Neolithic chambered tomb the remains of which are protected by a modern roof. It is located further west along the coastal road from Taversoe Tuick and the footpath to the site is signposted. When excavated the chamber had seven compartments in which were two human and other animal remains along with fragments of Neolithic pottery.

Knowe of Yarso

This Neolithic cambered tomb was in use about 2900BC. When excavated the remains of about twenty-seven people were found, seventeen of which were the skulls only. The remains of animals and flints and pottery fragments were also found. It is the highest of the Rousay tombs and is located north of the B9064 coast road and on a ridge after a signposted walk.

Midhowe Broch

This is on the west Muckle Water in Rousay on the coast overlooking Eynhallow Sound toward Mainland. It is estimated that is was built and in use between 200BC and 200AD. The circular wall of the broch is about four metres in height and the interior was divided into two by the use of large stone slabs and then further divided into smaller units. The remains of other later dwellings can be seen outside of the broch.

Midhowe Chambered Cairn

This is a communal tomb dating to about 3500BC. When the excavation took place twenty-five peoples remains were discovered. Within the tomb were also two other burials from a later period along with animal bones. The cairn is over seventy-five feet long and divided into twenty-five compartments. The site is covered by a large shed for protection with internal walkways that allow you to look down on the tomb. It is located close to Midhowe Broch in Rousay.

Yetnasteen Standing Stone

This stone is over seven feet high and is located in northeast Rousay. Northeast from Faraclett farm.

Wyre

This is southeast and a five minute journey from Rousay and has a population of eighteen people. The ferry operates seven days per week in the summer but not on Sundays in the winter. Sites of historical importance on the island include:

Cubbie Roo's Castle

This is a well preserved mid twelfth century castle. It is the oldest square keep castle in Scotland.

Saint Mary's Chapel

This twelfth century chapel is in the centre of Wyre. It has been partly restored although without a roof. It features Romanesque architecture.

Eday

This is reached via ferry to the village of Backaland towards the south of the island. Eday is in a central location among the northern isles of Orkney.

Eday Heritage and Visitor Centre

This centre is open during the summer months between May until the end of September from Mon-Sat from 9am to 5.30pm (Sun 10-4pm) and in the winter months Sundays only from 10-5pm. The centre is a good place to begin a trail of Eday and has displays, information and artefacts from Eday. It is located north from Backaland on the B9063 towards Millbounds. The Eady Heritage Walk is a good way to enjoy the historical and ecological features of the island and can be downloaded from www.visiteday.com

Stone of Setter

This weathered standing stone is about fifteen feet in height and seven feet wide. It is north from Mill Loch and along the Eday Heritage Walk. Along the walk you come to the Fold of Setter which is a low circular stone and earth bank dating from the Bronze Age. Further north on the walk towards Vinquoy Hill from the Fold of Setter is Braeside Chambered Cairn which is an open stalled cairn. Further north again is the Huntersquoy Chambered Cairn which is the remains of a two storey Orkney-Cromarty tomb. The lower chamber remains intact but is often waterlogged. The remains of the stones of the upper chamber can be seen.

Vinquoy Chambered Cairn

This is the best preserved tomb on the Eday Heritage Walk and north from the Huntersquoy site. An entrance passage leads to a central chamber with four side cells. The chamber is made from large sandstone blocks. The site is on Vinquoy Hill at the north end of Eday.

Stronsay

The island is seven miles long and can be reached by air from Kirkwall or Ferry from Kirkwall with some services via Eday. The island is noted for it's sandy beaches and wildlife. The main settlement is Whitehall on the north and where the ferry docks. The island has been inhabited since Neolithic times and archaeological finds of flint arrowheads suggest the possibility that Stronsay could have been inhabited as early as 10000BC to 8000BC. Historical sites to visit include:

The Fish Mart Heritage Centre

This is located in Whitehall next to the harbour and Harbour Office and gives information on the history of the herring trade which at one time was vital to the island's economy.

Iron Age Fort

This is a small promontory early Iron Age Fort and has a stone faced rampart across the narrow isthmus. It is located on the east coast north of Burgh Head close to Tam's Castle. Tam's Castle is a sea stack with the remains of an early Christian hermitage on top. Broch of Burgh Head-is the largest hermitage site on Stronsay and has a wall along the landward side of the stack. It is located at Burgh Head on the east coast of the island.

Lamb Head Broch

This is located at the Lamb Head promontory are the remains of a broch and a wall within a mound can be seen. It is located in the south east of Stronsay at Lamb Ness.

Sanday

This is the third largest of the Orkney islands. It can be reached by the Orkney ferries and plane from Mainland. There is evidence of settlement from Neolithic through to Viking times and the present day one of these sites is identified below:

Quoyness Chambered Cairn

This is located on the east of Els Ness in the south of Sanday. Possibly dating back to 3000BC the main chamber is reached by an entrance passage and has six smaller chambers leading off it. The remains of about fifteen people were found in the chambers and passage when first excavated.

Westray

This is reached via ferry to Rapness Ferry Terminal in the south of the island from Mainland or Pierowall Ferry Terminal to Papa Westray in the north. Pierowall is the largest settlement on the island. Westray has had settlements since Neolithic times.

Westray Heritage Centre

This is located in Pierowall in the north of the island and located in the centre of the village next to the Pierowall Hotel. The centre gives information on the history, archaeology, geography, culture and the environment of Westray. There website is www.westrayheritage.co.uk

St Mary's Parish Church

This is a ruined church dating back to the thirteenth century. Most of what is seen today is from the seventeenth century but remains of the thirteenth century building are in the south wall. The site is located in Pierowall.

Noltland Castle

The remains of the sixteenth century Z-plan castle built between 1560 and 1573 by Gilbert Balfour. The castle is noted for it's defensive features and large staircase. It is located about a mile west from the village of Pierowall.

Links of Noltland

This is on the coast northwest from the Heritage centre and is the remains of an extensive Neolithic and Bronze Age settlement dating back to at least 2600BC. It is a continual site of excavation and winds have uncovered areas of the site which was under protective sand dunes. It is seen as an extremely important site with the remains of building being discovered along with a number of artefacts. Found at the site was the small figure of a human only 41mm tall, 31mm wide and 12mm thick. This is the only carving of a human from Neolithic times to have been found in Scotland. Visitors can access the site which is at Grobust Bay on Mondays to Fridays with a guided tour at 2pm on each day.

Papa Westray

This is a small island of four miles in length and one mile wide. It can be reached by boat from Westray and plane. There are a number of archaeological sites on the island some of which are identifies below:

Knap of Howar

This is the best known monument on the west of the island. It comprises of two oblong stone dwellings dating back to about 3800BC. The larger house is some ten metres by five metres and the smaller seven and a half by three metres. Both are divided into rooms by upright slabs and have built in furniture and hearths. The houses are linked by an internal passageway.

Holm of Papay

This is a small island very close to the east of Papa Westray which has three chambered cairns. The most interesting is at the south end of the Holm which has a main chamber with ten single and two double side chambers. Within the tomb are the outlines of carvings. The island is reached by private boat hire from the old pier.

St Boniface Kirk

This has stone work that survives from the twelfth century although there has been a Kirk on the site since the eighth century. The Kirk has been restored and is on the west of the island north from Knap of Howar.

Monkerhoose

This is an Iron Age settlement stretching into the early Pictish period. It is located to the west and under St Bonifice Church on the west side of Papa Westray.

North Ronaldsay

This is the northern most island in Orkney. There are daily flights to Orkney Mainland and Ferry services from Kirkwall and Papa Westray. The ferry docks at South Bay and the largest settlement is Hollandstoun which is about a mile north of South Bay and also close to the airport. The island was first inhabited about 2000BC and historical sights on North Ronaldsay include:

Howmae Brae

Little can now be seen of this Iron Age settlement which consisted of two large roundhouses on either side of a paved courtyard. The site is located east from the pier in South Bay and the south east arc of a wheelhouse, two upright slabs and some traces of wall can be seen on this site which is overblown with sand.

Broch of Burrain

Southeast from Howmae Brae was a tower which formed the centre of what was an extensive Iron Age settlement on the shore of Strom Ness. The site was occupied into the Pictish period. A mound and some wall remains can be seen.

Stan Stane

This is a thirteen feet high standing stone with a hole through it's upper part. It is located north from South Bay and east from the main road towards Hollandstown and east from Loch Gretchen.

Old Beacon

This was the third lighthouse built in Scotland and was constructed between 1788 and 1789. It is located in the north east of North Ronaldsay east of Bewan Loch at Dennis Head.

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